The philosophy of food at Eha
Refined nourishment, seasonal and local - a conversation with Peeter Pihel.
It begins outside, in the forest, along the shoreline, in soil shaped by sea air and the particular conditions of Hiiumaa. By the time it reaches the table, each element has passed through the hands of the island itself. Peeter, whose work gives form to Eha’s culinary concept, describes his role not as one of composition but of listening.
Below, he reflects on what it means to cook within the singular surroundings of Hiiumaa - where locality is not a trend but a condition, where five seasonal cadences set the pace, and where a simple broth in early spring can carry more meaning than abundance ever could.
Eha’s menus are seasonal and soulfully connected to Hiiumaa. How do you translate the island’s landscape and biodiversity into each dish?
At Eha, the landscape is not inspiration, it is the starting point.
We begin with what grows, moves and lives around us: coastal herbs, forest greens, wild berries, fish from nearby waters, and vegetables shaped by sandy soil and sea air. The island is relatively limited in what it offers, but that limitation creates clarity.
Alongside this, we are building our own garden in close collaboration with Annika, a space that will gradually become an important source of support and nuance in the kitchen. It will not define the menu immediately; rather, it will grow into it over time. First, we need to understand the soil, the microclimate, and how the island responds to what we plant. It is a process of learning, becoming familiar with the land before trying to shape it.
Each dish reflects a specific moment in time, not just a season, but a place within that season. Early shoots, wind-dried herbs and preserved elements from previous months, all come together to express continuity rather than abundance.
It is less about composing a dish and more about listening to what the land is ready to give.
At Eha, the landscape is not inspiration, it is the starting point. We begin with what grows, moves and lives around us: coastal herbs, forest greens, wild berries, fish from nearby waters, and vegetables shaped by sandy soil and sea air.
What small changes can people make in their everyday cooking to bring some of Eha’s approach into their own lives?
It often begins with small shifts in attention.
Cook with what is in season, even if it feels repetitive, seasonality naturally creates rhythm and balance. Use the whole ingredient, not just the most convenient parts. This builds both respect and creativity in the kitchen.
Reduce complexity. Fewer elements on the plate often allow each ingredient to be understood more clearly.
And perhaps most importantly, slow down. Take time to prepare, but also to eat. Notice how the food makes you feel not just how it tastes.
You don’t need a remote island to cook this way. You simply need to be present in the process.
Your approach has been described as Green Michelin in philosophy. How do sustainability and locality shape your decision-making in the kitchen?
Sustainability for us is not a slogan, it is a natural part of living on the island.
We prioritise locality, seasonality and full use of ingredients. This means working closely with local growers, fishermen and foragers, but also being open to unpredictability - because unpredictability is simply part of life.
Our advantage is that we do not need large volumes. We can adapt the menu based on what the island offers at any given time. While many kitchens follow fixed menus and use only selected parts of an ingredient, our smaller scale allows us to serve the very best of what the land and sea have to offer.
Local is not always the easiest choice, but it is the most honest one. It pushes us to adapt, to preserve, and to think in longer cycles.
The goal is not perfection, but alignment, with place, time and responsibility.
Eha’s retreats align with five seasons, including Springrise, Estonia’s unique transitional period. How does your culinary programme reflect each of these seasonal energies?
The five-season rhythm allows us to work with nuance rather than broad categories.
Springrise, in particular, is a quiet and subtle moment, a transition between stillness and movement. In the kitchen, it is also the most challenging time. There is not yet much available from the garden or the wild, and the ingredients preserved for winter are beginning to run low. It is a period of restraint, where the menu becomes lighter and more focused being built around broths, early greens and fermented elements. A simple broth with fermented cabbage, the first shoots of nettle, or lightly pickled roots can carry more meaning than abundance.
At the same time, it is a moment we all look forward to, when the darkness begins to fade and the sun slowly rises higher.
Each season carries its own energy, which is reflected naturally in the kitchen. Winter brings depth and grounding, expressed through slow-cooked dishes, preserved vegetables and rich stocks. Summer is about freshness and immediacy: raw preparations, just-picked herbs and minimal intervention. Late summer moves into ripeness and abundance, where tomatoes, berries and orchard fruits reach their peak. Autumn brings structure and preparation, with mushrooms, roots and preservation techniques returning to the forefront.
The kitchen follows these shifts intuitively, without forcing contrast.
You’ve said that food can be both nourishment and story. What story are you hoping to tell through the dining experience at Eha?
The story is not about complexity, it is about connection. We want our guests to feel where they are, and we hope they arrive mentally prepared for the place they are entering.
Through the food, guests experience the soil the vegetables grew in, the season they are part of, and the rhythm of the island. It is a story of place, but also of awareness, how slowing down changes the way we taste, notice and understand.
The dining experience becomes less about consumption and more about presence.
